Sheer Brilliance

Cheeky chic skirts are the next big thing.

Is it that time of year already? Just as we’ve folded our bikinis back in our drawers, the dust is being shaken off our faux fur. Thereafter, like a big slap in the sun kissed face next season’s collections cascade down the runway to remind us that we are now in the chilly season. Damn.

We have a wee while to wait, and to be fair great winter trends such as punk and dark florals to covet, but it doesn’t hurt to dream about next season.

The biggest SS14 trend has to be sheer skirts. Not for the faint-hearted, these jupes designed by the likes of Burberry Prorsum, Gucci, Fendi, Mulberry and Sass & Bide (just to name a few) don’t leave much to the imagination. Nevertheless, they give your legs a soft covering like a complimentary instagram filter! LOVE.

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Burberry Prorsum

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Peter Pilotto

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Mulberry

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Christopher Kane

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Antipodium

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Fendi

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Giambattista Valli

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Gucci

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Sass & Bide

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Versace

The Best of Autumn Winter 13/14

The London Lassie celebrates the top shows of the season…

5) Chanel

As models strutted around a giant globe to the tune of Daft Punk’s Around the World in the Grand Palais one thing became clear. Unless you’ve been hiding under a rock it’s pretty apparent Karl Lagerfeld has taken over the world. And really he can do no wrong. Season after season he manages to capture the attentions of even the style evaders with his avant-garde and unique designs. The hula bag of this season for example – who woulda thought?

After the AW13 show it’s clear the international style savvy will be picking up on key trends such as super sexy thigh high boots, dropped hem coats (chamaaaazing), fluffy pink and teal hats, small boxy bags in bright pink blue and yellow, slit-front skirts to show shorter ones beneath, and high collared crisp white shirts.

Karl, now you’re just showing off…

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4) Burberry Prorsum

Arguably Christopher Bailey’s best work yet – ‘nuf said.

Who would have thought sheer latex could be classy? Who thought a collection heavily utilising safari prints could still look British? Bailey has the innate talent of keeping a legendary label to its traditional routes whilst keeping it oh so now. Burberry’s hero piece, the trench, was revamped by adding sheer latex sleeves and brash gold pockets and belt. Tailored traditional pencil skirts became either sheer showing everything, or were made using shiny reptile skin, leopard print, or daring pvc. Take note: pencil skirts are now edgy.

Burberry is known in recent years for being one of the best brands to embrace social media marketing. And this became clear in the collection as instagram style hearts dotted their way across much of the deliciously caramel, chocolate and honey hued collection. Because of the juxtaposition between past, present and future – Burberry nailed it. 

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3) Balmain

If you believe less is more – look away now.

Think Dynasty, Arabian nights and MC Hammer. Sounds wrong doesn’t it? Well, Olivier Rousteing got next season’s Balmain concoction oh so right.

Following a similar vein from last season, the catwalk glistened with dropped crotch metallic trousers, wrestler style cinched in metallic waists, strong shoulders and draped clothing. The garments in rich shades such as plum, fuchsia and teal, were complemented with chandelier style earrings and slicked back flowing tresses. This Glam Rock array is a collection no-one can wait to get their hands on (unless you’re a wallflower, power hips and power shoulders at once may be too much for some).

Sure, Rousteing keeps giving us his signature stand out metallic and power shoulder styles but hey, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

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2) Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs’ latest injection into the house of Vuitton rendered a vigorous applause in Paris. Not just because the supermodel, Kate Moss made a runway appearance, but because of the designer’s stunning take on classic 50s ladieswear. Traditional became modern and poised became promiscuous.

Models were topped with Elizabeth Taylor style short black wigs that made even Kate and Cara look unrecognisable. Cute floral blazers were worn with no bottom half showing off ivory limbs. Pastel coloured Pyjama like skirt and trouser suits were rocked with modern attitude. Petticoat like pencil skirts were worn with lace bra tops under oversized masculine overcoats. Silk mini hot pants were worn with over sized traditional cashmere sweaters. And tweed was given a modern makeover by adding fur, feather and sequin encrusted hems. Vintage style fur coats were worn over silk nightdress-like lace trim dresses, like a sexy 50’s glamour puss making a dash from the Savoy at 4am.

Marc Jacobs stated before the show “Some of my friends in the show, who shall remain nameless, have spent a lot of time with me in hotel rooms, all dressed up but not going out. I like the louche implications of all that”. The collection certainly did have a boudoir feel, and looked like the most glamorous walk of shame ever.

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1)      Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana’s AW13 dose of glamour was a regal affair. Mixing renaissance opulence with British traditionalism and the usual Sicilian sexiness, it’s no doubt this collection comes top of the list.

“This collection is very Brit,” Stefano Gabbana said before the show began. And with hints of British history such as medieval style crowns, highland inspired plaid and tapestry style garments onlookers eyes set ablaze.

With dresses encrusted with mosaics of patron saints, opulent crowns, and lavish sunglasses the designer duo’s obsession with religion became clear. The mosaic styles were inspired by the Monreale Cathedral, a Norman structure outside Palermo, gothic and elaborate gold crucifixes were worn around necks and of course, Dolce and Gabbana’s signature black lace was utilised heavily.

The glistening yet gaudy eye opening display was paused a little by showcasing a more sombre palette of grey, black and white in the form of tweed three piece figure hugging suits with Elizabethan style corset peplums.

And just when the aroused audience had calmed down, the blood red finale took to the stage. This is probably a moment that will go down in history as one of the most magical moments in the temple of Dolce and Gabbana. Pure regal, pure splendour. Bravo. 

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A Hole in One Won’t Impress Anymore…

The London Lassie explores the rising trend of piercings and their shift from ghetto to glamour.

Hedvig Palm in Vogue Jan'13

Hedvig Palm in Vogue Jan’13

Piercings aren’t new: some of the oldest mummies discovered wore earrings, nasal studs and hoops date as far back as 1500BC and lip and tongue piercings have commonly been found in African and American tribes. Even nipple piercings date back to Ancient Rome and female genital piercing dates back to Ancient India. Price Albert famously pierced his genitalia to help hide the appearance of his large penis in tight trousers (lucky Victoria) and thus, the name for that specific special piercing was born.

It’s true that piercings have been around for eternity, but it feels like the way they are perceived is about to change. In modern times, puncturing the body (apart from the ear lobes) has been seen as rebellious. Punks in the seventies adorned their faces with spikes, nineties kids pierced their brows, Christina Aguilera changed her name to X-Tina and pierced every part of her body, and remember the absolute horror of the Royal family when teenage Zara Phillips got her tongue pierced? Nevertheless, it seems this shock factor is about to disappear as the fashion world embraces body modifications.

British Vogue Editor-in-Chief Alexandra Shulman recently stated “I had my ears pierced, but…I have never been tempted by any other kind of piercing. However, recently I’ve found myself starting enviously at those who have multiple piercings”.

Hedvig Palm in British Vogue Jan '13

Hedvig Palm in British Vogue Jan ’13

January Vogue included stunning beauty shots by Patrick Demachelier of model Hedvig Palm adorned with multiple ear and nose piercings decorated with thousands of pounds worth of exquisite studs and hoops. Model of the moment, Abbey Lee Kershaw recently said of her 10 bodily punctures, “I see my body as a blank canvas that’s aching to be decorated. 40-year-old model and Vogue contributing editor, Laura Bailey says of her newly pierced ear cartilage “I did it to feel a tiny bit like that pretty, carefree teenager. To make grown-up life and fashion feel a bit more punk, a bit more free”. With a boost in popularity with the fashion pack could it be that piercings are now chic?

Chanel RTW and Givenchy couture tried it last year. With elaborate nose ornaments and pearly punctures we all stared in awe, partly due to our love of the movie Girl with the Dragon Tattoo where the heroine had plenty of piercings. But they didn’t really catch on. Too much too soon perhaps? It seems like steadily we are seeing more discreet piercings on the catwalk and even earrings are becoming much more ornate, large and impossible to miss at Dolce and Gabbana, Balmain and Gucci this Spring.

High fashion piercings at Givenchy Haute Couture (left) and Chanel pre-fall 2012.

High fashion piercings at Givenchy Haute Couture (left) and Chanel pre-fall 2012.

In London’s east end you are never more than 10 paces away from a facial piercing, but more and more ‘mainstream’, pretty girls are adopting bull hooks and nose studs. Also, very few people now have a single stud in the ear, with every groove on the lug being a possible puncturing spot. Celebs like Miley Cyrus, who used to be girly, now have nose rings.

Singer of the moment Emeli Sande with her nose ring

Singer of the moment Emeli Sande with her nose ring

 So you want to go for the plunge and get pierced? According to New York’s prestigious piercing salon, New York Adorned, a consultation is recommended. J. Colby Smith, resident piercer says “Everyone’s ear is totally different. One thing works for you, it won’t necessarily work for her. I spend the majority of my day batting with people about that” As for the trends he recommends, “Septum chains have gone out a little bit, and backdrop chains are in”.

Yes, this could be a trend that could come and go, but they’re not permanent! Getting a piercing is like jumping on a seasonal trend. So for Spring Summer ’13’s trend piece, if you’re undecided between a nose piercing and the Prada toe-break platforms-we suggest the nose ring. After all, it’s exceedingly cheaper, and to be fair, less shocking.

As published on the Avanni blog.

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